A generator does most of its work through the accessories you bolt on around it. The right lead lets you run power from the boot to the van without draping cables across a wet campsite. A proper cover keeps dust out of the intake and rain off the panel. A ventilated box lets you run the thing quietly without turning the boot into an oven. Get these wrong and you’ll be dealing with tripped RCDs, corroded terminals, and a generator that dies years before it should.
Here’s what actually matters when kitting out your generator for life on the road, and where the money is worth spending.
Extension Leads & RV Adaptors
Most inverter generators like the Yamaha EF2200iS or Honda EU22i have a standard 10A power outlet on the front. Your caravan runs off a 15A input lead. Those two don’t match, and you can’t just jam a 15A plug into a 10A socket. You need the right adaptor and the right lead.
The 15A to 10A adaptor problem
Your van’s 15A lead has a larger earth pin than a 10A outlet will accept. A 15A to 10A adaptor (often called an “Ampfibian” or RV lead adaptor) bridges the gap and includes overload protection so you don’t draw more than the generator can safely handle. Don’t file down the earth pin on your van lead to make it fit. That’s illegal, dangerous, and it defeats the overload protection.
Never modify a 15A plug to fit a 10A socket by cutting or filing the earth pin. Use a proper RV adaptor with built-in overload protection. A modified lead can let the van draw more current than the circuit is rated for, creating a fire and electrocution risk.
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Lead length and cable gauge
Keep the run as short as practical. A long, thin lead drops voltage, and low voltage makes appliances work harder and run hotter. For runs under 10 metres, a 15A heavy duty lead rated at 10A or more is fine. If you’re parking the generator well away from the van to keep the noise down, buy a proper 15A rated lead rather than a hardware store 10A extension cord.
Carry a small drybag or plastic container to sit your adaptor and lead join off the ground. Keeping the connection out of dew and puddles prevents nuisance RCD trips and corroded pins.
Covers & Weather Protection
Generators hate two things: dust and water. Dust clogs the air filter and shortens engine life. Water in the wrong place either kills the electronics or trips your safety devices. A cover solves both, but you need the right type for the job.
Storage covers vs running covers
A basic storage cover is a fitted bag that goes over the unit when it’s off and packed away. It stops dust settling on the intake and keeps the panel clean in the boot. These run $30 to $60 and every generator should have one.
A running cover is different. These are canopies or hoods designed to let the generator run in light rain while keeping water off the control panel and out of the exhaust. Never fully enclose a running generator with a solid cover. It needs airflow to cool and it produces carbon monoxide. A running cover only shields the top and sides while leaving the base and exhaust clear.
Generators produce carbon monoxide. Never run one inside a cover that blocks airflow, inside a tent or annexe, or within closed spaces near where you sleep. Even under a running canopy, keep the unit at least 3 metres from open windows and doors.
Storage & Running Boxes
The generator box does two jobs depending on how it’s built: it either stores and secures the unit while you travel, or it lets you run the generator quietly at camp. Very few boxes do both well, so decide which problem you’re solving.
Storage boxes for transport
A generator bouncing loose in the boot or on the drawbar will leak fuel, scratch panels, and eventually crack a mounting foot. A hard storage box with tie-down points keeps it contained and stops petrol fumes filling your storage areas. If you carry your generator on a drawbar box, drain the fuel or run the tap to off before travel to avoid leaks on rough corrugations.
Sound-dampening running boxes
These are ventilated, insulated boxes that reduce generator noise while allowing airflow and exhaust venting. A good one drops perceived noise noticeably, which matters in free camps and national parks where you want to keep the peace. They’re not cheap at $200 to $400, and a well-made inverter generator is already fairly quiet, so weigh up whether you actually need one.
Before buying a sound box, check whether your camping style even needs the generator running. Many travellers who upgrade to a decent solar and lithium setup barely start the generator, which makes an expensive sound enclosure redundant.
Parallel Kits & Connectors
If you run two smaller generators, a parallel kit links them so they act as one larger unit. Two 2000W generators paralleled will give you enough to run a caravan air conditioner, which a single 2000W unit usually can’t manage on start-up.
Parallel kits are brand and model specific. A Yamaha kit won’t work on a Honda, and even within a brand the connectors differ between models. Buy the kit made for your exact generator. Genuine kits run $150 to $250. The benefit of running two smaller units is redundancy and easier lifting: two 20kg generators beat one 45kg unit when you’re loading the boot.
If air conditioning is your only reason for going parallel, check your van’s actual start-up draw first. Many soft-start air conditioner modules let a single 2400W inverter generator run the AC, saving you the cost and weight of a second unit.
Maintenance & Small Extras
A few cheap items keep your generator running for the length of your lap rather than dying in the second year.
- Funnel & fuel container: A dedicated 5L or 10L jerry can plus a fine-mesh funnel for clean refuelling. Petrol only, stored outside the van.
- Spare spark plug & air filter: Cheap, model-specific, and impossible to find in remote towns. Buy them before you leave.
- Fuel stabiliser: Add it if the generator sits unused for weeks. Stale fuel gums up the carburettor and is the most common cause of a no-start.
- Oil & a small drain tray: Inverter generators need regular oil changes. Carry the correct grade and a way to catch the old oil.
- Cable ties & a padlock: For securing the unit at camp. Generators walk off unattended sites.
Store petrol in an approved container outside your living space, never inside the van or a sealed boot alongside gas appliances. Petrol vapour is heavier than air and pools in low spaces.
- A 15A to 10A RV adaptor with overload protection is the one accessory almost every generator owner needs. Never modify a lead to skip it.
- Every generator should have a fitted storage cover. Only use running canopies that keep airflow and exhaust clear.
- Never run a generator in an enclosed space; carbon monoxide is deadly and odourless.
- Sound boxes and parallel kits solve specific problems. Confirm you actually have that problem before spending $200-plus.
- Carry a spare plug, air filter, correct oil, and fuel stabiliser. These are cheap insurance against a dead generator in the middle of nowhere.
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