A generator is only as useful as the gear you run alongside it. Buy the wrong lead and you’ll trip the safety cutout on your Honda every time the aircon kicks in. Skip a proper cover and you’ll be pulling a wet, corroded unit out of the ute at the next free camp. And without somewhere to store it that actually vents heat and fumes, you’re either lugging it into the annexe or leaving it exposed on the drawbar.
This guide covers the three accessory categories that matter most: leads, covers, and storage boxes. We’ll tell you which specs to look for, what to avoid, and where the money is worth spending.
Generator Leads & Adaptors
Your generator’s output socket almost never matches your caravan’s 15A input straight out of the box. Portable inverter generators like the Honda EU22i and Yamaha EF2200iS have a standard 10A household outlet, while your van has a 15A plug. That mismatch is where leads and adaptors come in.
The 10A to 15A adaptor problem
You cannot simply jam a 15A plug into a 10A socket, and using an unfused “cheater” adaptor is both illegal and dangerous. The correct solution is a 10A to 15A adaptor lead fitted with a built-in circuit breaker. These are legal, safe, and let your 15A van plug run off the generator’s 10A outlet without overloading it.
~$139
Extension leads
You’ll want the generator sitting away from the van when it’s running, both for noise and for exhaust fumes. A 10 to 15 metre 15A rated extension lead gives you that distance. Do not use a thin 10A household extension cord to carry your van’s load; the cable rating must match the current draw.
Never run a generator inside an annexe, tent, or enclosed space. Carbon monoxide is odourless and kills. Keep it at least 3 to 5 metres from where you sleep, downwind if possible, and always in open air.
Lead specs at a glance
| Item | Rating | Typical Price | Why You Need It |
|---|---|---|---|
| 10A to 15A adaptor with breaker Essential | 10A protected | $120–$150 | Connects your 15A van to a 10A generator legally |
| 15A extension lead (10–15m) | 15A | $60–$110 | Distance for noise and fume management |
| Parallel connector lead | Model specific | $80–$200 | Links two generators for more output |
Store your adaptor and lead together in the same bag as the generator so you never arrive at a camp and realise the one part that makes it all work is still at home.
Generator Covers
There are two different jobs a “cover” can do, and people confuse them constantly.
Storage covers
A storage cover is a fabric or vinyl slip that protects the unit when it’s switched off and stored. It keeps dust, UV, and moisture off during travel and while parked. These are cheap, usually $30 to $50, and worth having if your generator lives in an exposed tunnel boot or on the drawbar. Look for a UV-stabilised, water-resistant fabric with a drawcord or velcro base so it doesn’t flap loose at 100km/h.
Running covers
A running cover (sometimes called a storm cover or rain cover) is a rigid or semi-rigid shroud designed to let the generator operate in the rain. It shields the unit from water while leaving the exhaust and cooling vents clear. Genuine Honda and Yamaha branded running covers exist, but plenty of Big Lappers rig their own with a milk crate and a tarp propped clear of the exhaust.
Never cover a running generator with a standard storage cover. Blocking the vents causes it to overheat and can start a fire. Only purpose-built running covers or open-air rigs are safe while the unit is operating.
~$40
Generator Storage Boxes
Where you keep your generator on the road matters more than most people think. Petrol fumes, weight distribution, and heat all come into play.
Front boot vs external box vs ute tray
Storing a generator inside the caravan’s front tunnel boot is common, but the boot needs to be sealed off from the living space and ideally vented, because petrol vapour is heavier than air and pools. Many vans have a dedicated vented gas or generator locker for exactly this reason.
If your van doesn’t have one, an external mounted box on the drawbar or A-frame is the tidiest solution. These are lockable, vented boxes designed to hold a generator securely while travelling. Prices run from around $250 for a basic steel box up to $500+ for a slide-out or aluminium unit.
| Storage Option | Cost | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Vented A-frame box Best Overall | $250–$500 | Keeping fumes and weight out of the van interior |
| Factory vented locker | Built in | Vans that came with one |
| Ute tray / tow vehicle | Varies | Camper trailer and hybrid setups |
Never store a generator with petrol in the tank inside a sealed, unventilated space, and never inside the living area of your van. Fuel vapour and a spark is a genuine explosion risk. Drain the tank or run it dry before long storage.
Weigh your generator, box, and full jerry can before you mount everything on the A-frame. Ball weight adds up fast, and it’s a common reason vans end up nose-heavy and over their tow ball limit.
Parallel Kits & Connectors
Running a single 2kVA generator won’t start most caravan air conditioners. The fix is a parallel kit: a lead or box that links two identical generators so their output combines. Two Honda EU22i units in parallel give you around 4kVA, which comfortably runs a rooftop aircon.
Genuine parallel cables from Honda and Yamaha cost $150 to $250. Cheaper generic parallel boxes exist, but only pair identical model generators, and stick to the manufacturer’s kit if you want to keep your warranty intact. If aircon on the road is the goal, weigh the cost of two 2kVA units plus a parallel kit against a single larger generator.
Other Accessories Worth Having
A few smaller items round out a generator kit:
- Fuel jerry can and spout: A 5L metal or approved plastic can keeps you topped up between towns. Store it in a vented locker, never inside.
- Oil and funnel: Inverter generators need oil changes every 50 to 100 hours. Carry the correct grade and a small funnel.
- Wheel kit or trolley: A 2kVA unit weighs over 20kg. A wheel kit saves your back at every setup.
- Ground mat or foam pad: Reduces vibration noise and keeps the base clean.
- Security cable and lock: Generators are a theft target at free camps. A steel cable through the handle to a solid point is cheap insurance.
Log your running hours in a notebook or phone app. Sticking to the oil change schedule is the single biggest thing that keeps an inverter generator running reliably for years on the road.
- A 10A to 15A adaptor with a built-in circuit breaker is non-negotiable for connecting your van legally and safely.
- Use a 15A rated extension lead so you can run the generator well clear of where you sleep.
- Storage covers protect when off; only purpose-built running covers are safe while the unit operates. Never block the vents.
- Store the generator in a vented external box or factory locker, never sealed inside the living area with fuel in the tank.
- Two identical units plus a genuine parallel kit is the standard way to power a rooftop aircon.
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